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14 day journal
Day 1 Humble Pie
  and Duck Feet
Day 2 Travel
  Travails
Day 3 Yangshuo,
  Guangxi
Day 4 Mama
  Moon &
  Mountains
Day 5 In Fear of
   Lisa, Snakes,
   Pepto-Bismol
Day 6 - A Three
  Self Church
Day 7 - Student
  Life
Day 8 - Losing
  My Privileges
Day 9 - Do You
  Like Our
  School?
Day 10 -
  Sobering
  Needs
Day 11- H.K.
  Polytechnic
Day 12 - H.K.
  Sweet & Sour
Day 13 - The
   Virtues of Tea
   and Pizza Hut
Day 14 - One Leg
  Homeward

 


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An Intentional Cross-Cultural Vacation

Day 12: Hong Kong Sweet & Sour
Hong Kong

Today I had a more potent taste of Hong Kong; a sweet and sour taste, in fact.

After settling into our new hostel room for the next couple of days - a bit pricier but nicer and more comfortable by far - in the Mongkok area of the Kowloon Peninsula, Tony and I took the subway and a bus to the far south side of Hong Kong Island to Aberdeen. Aberdeen has a harbor filled with fishing, cargo, and merchant boats, many of them serving also as part-time residences for fishermen and their families. Tony and I bargained with a woman for a thirty-minute tour of the harbor by junk boat; forty Hong Kong dollars each. We snapped a couple of dozen photographs and enjoyed the view of the city and surrounding terrain from the water. Would have loved to join the fishermen for a day, though it can't be easy work. After sitting in the bow of the boat jacketless and exposed to the damp wind for too long, I think I'm already feeling a bit of a "bug"; throat's a little scratchy and I've certainly not rested well the past few weeks. Still, I've been healthy up to now for which I'm grateful.

We then ate at Ruby's Chinese Restaurant in downtown Aberdeen though neither of us ordered Chinese food this time around - Tony ate spaghetti, I tried the peppered chicken special.

From Aberdeen, we rode back to the Central region of Hong Kong Island and found the tram to Victoria's Peak, the famous mountaintop overlook. The tram itself treks up the mountain side at what feels like a good forty-five degree angle, though occupants sit vertically just as in any other train car upon tracks; made for an odd sensation as we progressed upward; not a few moments of doubt concerning the soundness of the tram's engineering. We made the top just before nightfall and thus had a view both during dusk and as the skyline lit up in neon and nightlife; beautiful and impressive, full of lights and activity, a postcard view of sorts.

The "sweet" of Hong Kong, at least in my limited experience, has been the cornucopia of cultural goodies available to visitors: wonderful food, Hong Kong movies, the art and cultural centers on the coast of Kowloon Peninsula, the international make-up of people buzzing down the street, the mix of languages and cultures, even the adrenaline of so much activity.

The "sour" has been another story. I've been saddened, though not terribly surprised I suppose, to see Hong Kong dealing with many of the same human tendencies that we do in the West. For whatever reasons, though - maybe because I'm travelling and thus have my eyes wide open and my antennae of cultural scrutiny in full operation - I acutely sense here our basic, human waywardness concerning both materialism and sex. A walk down the main streets of Hong Kong provides one with an opportunity on most every city block to buy jewelry, electronics, cuff links that cost more than my car, digital cameras by the dozens, diamond watches. Shopping centers are everywhere. Not that these are in and of themselves bad or evil, but the sheer mass and availability of these things tells me we're spending a good deal of money on a great many gadgets. Tony and I found one hotel room that goes for $39,000 Hong Kong dollars a night (almost $5,000 U.S.). And on this same avenue (day12.6) a homeless, handicapped man is stepped over like an oily puddle of street water.

Beyond this opulence, such a stroll bombards one with thousands of sex-crazed images. Newspaper kiosks have numerous magazines with half-clothed women hanging all over the cover (don't even want to consider the contents). Seen several signs for topless bars. One billboard in Chinese and English, with a male Chinese caricature accompanied by a dragon read, "Wherever you go, whatever you do, be sure to take, a condom with you." I've found that just as in the West folks here are obsessed with hair loss, image, being desirable, having a big bust, small buns, and/or toned muscles. Another billboard, one for a clothing store, had a Caucasian brunette in a tiny flowered dress leaning in sultry disinterest beside the text "Your Identity" and then the store logo. I can't help but wonder how this might subtly influence the thousands of Asian men and women a day who walk by, influence the way they view themselves or those around them. True, the point is the department store itself and the clothes therein, but to make one's identity even remotely grounded in these is destructive. It's subtle, but dangerous. But we all know that we're not lovable unless we're "beautiful" and wear the right clothes, right?

This feels like a tirade. Maybe I'm simply responding as one who prefers the mountains to malls and simplicity to shopping sprees. And again this is nothing we don't have in the West. But I can't help but bring such things under scrutiny when a passive response would allow marketers and product designers to dictate how I see myself. There's certainly been uncountable good things here and I feel hope in the University students' concern with social issues, in the ministry at the Chungking Mansions and other similar activity.

We did watch some television this evening, a late show taped from the United States. Most definitely do have our own crassness in America and this came through quickly as I've been away from television for awhile. What was supposed to be funny felt terribly degrading.

Maybe I'm just too conservative or uptight or anxious. But I don't think so; just responding to that which doesn't feel best or quite right with what's around me.

All of these moral quandaries aside, it was another good day of sharing with Tony and hearing his hopes and fears for the rest of the school year. Both Aberdeen and the Peak were picturesque; wish I could spend more time on the Aberdeen vessels, experience more of such a life. I'm intrigued. Even with these activities, we spent a fairly low-key day and will probably do more of the same tomorrow.

I pray, Lord, that I not have a critical spirit. I've got my own hang-ups. Give me the wisdom and strength to seek your justice and goodness.


Mark

 
   

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