Experiencing China

Day 6 - A Three Self Church
Guangzhou, Guangdong Province

I hit my first cultural "wall" this morning. Tony calls it a "China moment." Others would call it part of culture shock. All at once I found myself frustrated and wanting to be in a more familiar environment.

After several nights of not sleeping well and battling a touch of jetlag, I awoke on my sleeper train bunk, a bunk much too short for me, at 5am as the cabin lights flicked on. I'd been jolted awake several times in the night by the jerking of the train and occasional usage of the overhead lights, as well as by a very loud little girl on the bunk across from me who suddenly didn't seem as cute as when I'd first entered the train the night previous. My nose was running and my sinuses ached, the result of them blasting me with the heater near the head of my bed (even my books on the shelf next to my bunk were hot). Just as I awoke a woman thrust the blanket from my feet and legs so she could mop the floor around me. The speakers pounded out disco music - lots of synthesized keyboard - and later a Chinese version of the country song "Daisy, Daisy," which I couldn't believe I was hearing. This was followed by harsh, crackling announcements, in either Mandarin or Cantonese (wasn't paying attention), over the loudspeaker. On top of all this a putrid rotten-food- hiding-in-the- corner-of-a-train-car stench permeated the air. I was sick, tired, wanting some quiet. Definitely feeling less patience for being in a new culture. So goes culture shock.

This morning, after arriving in Guangzhou and then taking an hour bus ride from the west train station to Tony's place, hustling through a shave and shower, and spending another hour to travel across town by bus and taxi, we finally made it to the Three Self Church on Shamien Island. The Island is a tiny bit of land (.3km squared) on the south part of town. We weren't able to get to the church as quickly as we'd hoped, only caught the last half of the service; mostly testimonials, in translation in Cantonese and English, and then some prayer.

Shamien Island came under French and British "ownership" in the mid-1800s until its liberation in 1949 by the Kumingtang. They've retained much of the western architecture and are presently in (day6.1) the process of renovating and restoring the island.

The church services consist of worship, then a message, then public testimonials and prayer time. The hymnals were in both Chinese and English, with such familiar songs as Old Rugged Cross and O Come Emmanuel, though several of the pages were omitted: #s 9, 14, 21, 29; not sure if this was intentional. They also used overheads for worship songs. In the afternoon there's a time for small group Bible study. Testimonies were given firstly by an English gentleman who shared about how God had answered his intentional efforts to be more prayerful. A Chinese woman then shared about how she felt God had provided for her in travelling and visiting family. Though some told her she was "lucky" as particular situations in her life worked out for the good, she insisted that rather than luck, which she didn't believe in, God had helped her in her time of need.

About one hundred twenty people attended the service, including fifteen to twenty whites and at least three blacks. The church building itself was a yellow, turn of the century (?) building with vaulted ceilings. Certainly it's fiercely hot here in the summer as the church had half a dozen ceiling fans and another dozen on the walls by the windows. We sat on wooden pews that had hymnal holders and communion wine cup holders.

From what I've been told, congregates at the Three Self Church here have the freedom to worship, to share with one another about what God is teaching them individually, but they can't talk about such things as evangelism or the spreading of the faith. As long as it's about "me," about the individual's faith, it's okay. They have to register with the government and are led by preachers and administrators that are appointed by the government. It's this municipal tie that causes many to question the "life" of a church such as this. Still, like most any church, it sounds as if there are aspects or members of this church that are alive and vibrant, others that are less so. In Guangzhou, there are a few other Protestant Three Self Churches, a few Catholic Three Self Churches, and then two international churches that only non-Chinese can attend. At the international churches they actually have more freedom to preach and discuss whatever they wish. On occasion, a government official will check everyone's passport at these services to be sure no Chinese are in attendance. I've also been told that there are numerous house churches around Guangzhou, though these are illegal.

Some of this I find fairly ironic. As an American, I can go to an international service here in Guangzhou and hear a message preached that not even local Chinese are able to attend. And I can travel freely to Hong Kong, something most mainland Chinese are still unable to do even after the reunification of Hong Kong with China. Recently, at home in the States, I watched the movie To Live with one of my Chinese housemates, Liang. It's a Chinese film by Zhang Yimou. According to Liang, the film has been outlawed in China due to its subtle commentary on Chinese politics and Communism. Though I've watched this film, which is beautifully made in Mandarin with English subtitles, set in China, and created by Chinese artists, an average Chinese citizen is forbidden to view it.

I'm so used to Sunday being a bit different than other days, a day for church, rest and recreation for many religious and non-religious folks alike in the States, that I find it disconcerting that today felt like any other business day. In America we have a church on every street corner. Not so here.

After church we got some lunch, walked around a bit, headed home to rest before beginning the school week tomorrow. We rode Guangzhou's brand new subway system home. Well, part of the way; we had to do the second leg by bus. Surprisingly, they forbade spitting on the subway, something Chinese seem to do a great deal of; wonder if such ordinances are seeking to change that? Something else I'm getting used to is the amount of noise many Chinese make when eating - slurping and sucking and chewing and slurping. In America we'd consider this rude. But yeah, I'm getting used to this.

Have also noticed that men are much more affectionate here than in the States. I've seen lots of guys walking down the street arm in arm.

The days are going by quickly, of course; expected as much. I'm grateful for today's experience at the church as it was a blessing to see people in worship. Still, my heart's a bit heavy to see such a lack of presence of believers.

Mark

home | urbana 06 | know your world | next steps | past urbanas | blogs
privacy statement | copyright | urbana.org team | about urbana.org
 site map | contact urbana | help | email list